Résumé'A masterpiece that recalls early James Salter' Geoff Dyer, Observer
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
'Breathtaking' New York Times
'Luscious' Ed Caesar, Guardian
Texte supplémentaireAn astounding book.
ISBN/GTIN978-1-4721-5141-4
ProduktartBuch
EinbandartKartonierter Einband
FormatB-Format Paperback (UK)
ProduktionslandVereinigtes Königreich
Erscheinungsjahr2016
Erscheinungsdatum10.05.2016
Erstverkaufstag10.05.2016
Seiten512 pages
SpracheEnglisch
MasseLargeur 130 mm, Hauteur 195 mm, Épaisseur 34 mm
Gewicht390 g
BZ-Nr.18988824